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11-17-2007
The drains are even easier to run external lines for, that's no problem at all. Drill and tap the head and pan and clamp a fuel hose on. I'm going to see what can be done for internal lines for both first becasue it just look neater, but it will be what it will be I guess.

11-17-2007
Not knowing any better back then, I got the QV heads off by driving wedges in. The first head took 7 hours with a 3 lb hammer, and it's a good thing I started with that one because the second took 11 hours. best I could tell the engine had been overheated a few times before I got it which made the heads gaskets weep a bit into the stud holes....it was a horrible job and I was absolutely dreading the V12 with even more studs to be stuck. The puller made short work of it though and it only took a couple hours to make the plates….well worth the time.

11-17-2007
I don't know that they would fit on the block either....I don't know what all changed. The Goldsmith book is incorrect about the DOHC heads not fitting. The DOHC heads will fit in the 308 engine bay without much drama and will make a proven 400 hp, maybe more, so there would be no advantage I can see to the SOHC heads at this point really.

I'm going to tuff it out a bit longer with making the TR fits work.....I really don't want to need to put a blower back on to get back to where I was for hp and I really don't want to have to take the QV badge off the back of the car

Since I have to do some work on the block now anyway, I'm thinking I may cut the flange off the back and fix it to a 308 configuration and use the 308 flywheel and starter. I think it will look neater that way but I need to do a little more measuring to see if that work buys me what I'm thinking it will. My thought is a short hydraulic throw-out bearing and a little work on the flywheel and I'll save at least an inch, maybe a full 2 inches off the assembly length. That would make life good again in spite of this project needing a lot more welding than I was hoping it would.

11-18-2007
That and I'm more than a little OCD at times

I think the issue with the studs will cause about a 2-week delay, not really a big deal in the scheme of things I guess…..more scary to see than actual problem.

11-18-2007
I cleaned some parts a bit today, which wasn't particularly fun. Wifey has a strict no solvents in the basement rule, so I has to go outside and finish everything off with soap and water before bring them back in. By the time I finished a couple hours later the light rain had turned to light snow....time for a drink or 2 to warm up.

11-19-2007
ok, ok, you were right.

you don't happen to know the stud pattern on the SOHC block do you? I'm wondering is the right way to build this engine is a SOHC 364 block, 400 crank and TR heads

11-20-2007
Quote:
Mk e you sound like you are ordering a family meal...
1 item from part A
1 item from part B
1 item from part C


I don't want any models to feel left out of the fun.


Quote:
Do you have CAD? I think my head gasket from 330 in in cad...... BUT 365 is different.


I do, a cad file would be great!

11-20-2007
It looks like the studs were move on the 400 block to get them out from under the exhaust cam, the SOHC engine wouldn't have that concern. Knowing how much engineers like symmetry, I’ve got to believe they rows would be straight at least and maybe is a useful placed.

This stud issue is really bothering me….I’m just not in love with any of the options I’ve got to fix them. I ordered taps, dies, and material to make plugs, but I’m ¾ leaning toward welding them shut at the moment.

It I weld them I could order from column D and get 348 liners and have a 5.3 liter or get the 89mm liners form the 4.0 liter 308 project and have a 5.8 liter. That’s close enough to 6 I think to call it a 6 liter. Oh, or it’s close to 5.7, I could tell people I put a 350 in it

11-20-2007
I know.......but I just keep seeing the big picture through my rose colored glasses including a big v12

11-20-2007
Then I could just go buy a TR that comes with TR heads, my wife reminds me of that every other day or so. There is going to be a lot more modifying here then I would have preferred but at this point I can still say I’ve had worse and it’s still no Fiadilac (500ci caddy engine in a fiat X1/9 I did years ago).

When I do stuff like this there are a few rules and this doesn’t break any yet.

1) Don’t ever under any circumstances modify a normal where item.
2) No bodywork required because I s*ck at that.
3) Don’t modify 2 parts when 1 will do.


Now on this project unfortunately, it looks like I need to modify a lot:

1) The block needs the studs and oil holes moved and it may be best to alter the mount flange, which might save modifying the bell housing.

2) The heads will need the one end altered to clear the timing chain and mat with the chain cover

3) The cam covers need to be altered to mate with the chain cover, probably narrow them and certainly add a “Ferrari” to them.

4) The timing chain cover has numerous protrusions on the front that are of no use to me and just get in the way, so they will be cut off. Also the spacing of the holes for the cams is wrong and will need correcting.

5) The trans casting needs the oil sump part modified to match the new engine.

6) The Trans/engine end cover needs to be altered to fit the engine and move the idler gear, see 7.

7) The trans input gear will need to be extended. I am planning to swap the engine and trans gears to get a better drive ratio for the high torque engine, and that means moving the idler gear a bit.

8) Modify the drop gear cover the move the idler gear bearing and add an outer bearing to support the trans input gear.

9) All new exhaust.